A slow day in Yuma

Dense fog greets us this morning.  It seems very odd in a place that gets less than 3” of rain a year and is surely related to the patter of raindrops on the roof as we headed to bed.  It makes for an interesting drive to our early appointment at the auto shop.     

So, the car is in the garage getting new front wheel bearings (that was the diagnosis) so we are hanging out kinda close.  The AZ Marketplace (flea market/stuff sale) is just a few blocks away so we had to check it out.  I came out with produce, that’s it.  We did have lunch there.  My shrimp spring rolls were surprisingly good and Kent’s pulled pork, while probably not award winning, was also good.           

Continuing west

We are Yuma bound today. That means about 250 miles on I-10 and I-8.  A gray brown haze veils mountain ranges that jut up from the desert. Dust is the biggest culprit.  This isn’t exactly environmentally friendly AG in the wide valleys along here.  Land that could well have supported subsistence farming is taking a real beating at the commercial scale now practiced here.  Acres and acres of bare soil is exposed to swirling winds; the story of so much of the southwest. 

We settled in a the Kofa Escapee Park.  It is convenient for errands to run.  We hope to get out to Mitry Lake but first have to get a “noise” diagnosed on the car.   That is the task for tomorrow.  Since we are in town we check out a Jazz concert at the village square, trombonist  Matt Hall.  Jazz is better in closer surroundings when you can watch the musicians and get into the feel of it.  Plus, these guys were a little too into solo riffing.  It broke up any continuity of the music making it feel like five soloists taking turns at center stage rather than an ensemble building on each other’s work.  It was still a nice way to spend an hour or so on a lovely evening. 

A must stop

Saguaro national Park is a chance to immerse yourself in this wonderful desert landscape.  Drive the loop.  Stops along the way provide fabulous vistas as vegetation of the desert flats splashes up the mountainsides.  Short trails get you out for a closer look. 

There are longer trails that lead as far out into the wilderness as you might care to go.  Don’t miss this place.      

Cactus Forest

Hooray, the National Parks are coming back on line.  The visitor center at Saguaro NP is open so we stop to get maps and trail recommendations.  Today we head for the Douglas Springs trailhead and the Garwood Loop hike that climbs up slope well into the desert above Tucson.  I am always amazed at how dense the vegetation is in this moisture starved place.  Saguaro are the towering pines of the desert while creosote bush, mesquite, palo verde, and dozens of varieties of cactus form the understory.  We are too early for wildflowers but the beautiful rugged landscape still makes for a great walk.  The ranger reported that hikers saw a mountain lion here yesterday but we were not so fortunate today.  A handful of the typical desert birds did make a showing though so fauna sighting wasn’t a complete washout.

Tombstone

OK, it is one gigantic tourist trap.  We had fun wondering the shops and watching the many period-costumed hawkers working the streets to get folks into the attractions.  The Bird Cage Theater is one of the few historic buildings still standing.  A tour spins a great story of its history as theatre, saloon, poker parlor and brothel.  I’m not sure that story would hold up to any serious fact checking.  There are horse drawn (and donkey drawn) stagecoaches and gun fights a plenty.  We grab lunch at the OK Corral Café; tasty pinto bean and ham soup and a hatch green chili buffalo burger.  We topped it all off with an official Tombstone Sarsaparilla.  It is worth a quick stop if you are in the area. 

A snow fed creek in the desert?

Today we head up Southerland wash in Catalina State Park.  The trail laces its way between the cactus studded desert and rugged peaks.  We trek past patches of lush green grass and crisscross a rivulet of water that zig-zags across the wide wash.  Near the three-mile mark we encounter the main flow of a cool clear creek originating from patches of white high in the peaks above.  It is perfect place for a lunch break.

We could back track but we can’t resist the loop route.  The map says it will only add couple miles.  It is messy and rocky underfoot as we wind down slope but the view up the wash is beautiful.  We trek on; 7 miles, 8 miles, 9…10 miles.  I am still not sure if it was the map or my map reading skills but the loop totals 10.4 miles and our dogs are barking by the time we get back to the car.   The upside, the long route took us through the turf of a couple of the fattest, sleekest coated coyotes we have ever seen.  They eyed us long enough for Kent to get a couple pictures.                 

Pima Air and Space Museum

The aircraft collection is impressive.  The guide’s banter makes a walk through tour educational and fun.  We grabbed lunch at their café, The Flight Grill, and we pretty pleased with our choices; deliciously seasoned chicken noodle soup and a sonoran hot dog.

The dog had everything on it, bacon, pickles, tomato, green chili sauce, onions, mustard…check it out.         

Wildlife

Travel is better today and we make it as far Cas El Rancho campground in Deming.  It is a small fenced compound within free-range grazing land.  I climbed out and opened the gate to enter and closed it again behind us, as instructed by the sign on the gate.  As the sun sets, a handful of free-range locals come to visit. 

The next morning some indigenous locals make an appearance, scaled quail.  I love the sounds they make.

Unplanned stop

Today we pull out of Seminole Canyon.  A brutal headwind slows progress to a maximum of 47 miles an hour with Kent’s foot on the floor.  The resulting gas mileage is 3 mpg.  We are not in any hurry to get anywhere so we hold up in Fort Stockton (Roadrunner RV used to be Parkview RV) for the night after just 138 miles of progress.  Better travel weather is predicted for tomorrow.

Fort Stockton smells bad.  It is oil country and that doesn’t help but this seems different, more like sour water or something.  A little research provides the answer; it is from oil production but is as a result of uncapped, played out wells that are spewing putrid sulfur and ick laden water from deep aquafers forming stinky pools.  Seems no one feels compelled to cap or plug or maybe they can’t but this is surely an ugly, unintended, irresponsible consequence of poorly managed oil production.