Who could bypass this? World Famous Betty’s Pies in Two Harbors Minnesota. We sample wild blueberry and Bumbleberry, each with ice cream of course. It is a fun, tasty stop.
Duluth
Born a port town where the St. Louis River drains into Lake Superior, Duluth is still a very industrial city with some interesting sites to visit. We start our walk around along the harbor to check out the lift bridge over the Duluth Canal. It is a cool kind of draw bridge. A 386 foot section of highway is suspended below an impressive steel superstructure that juts high above the channel. Huge counter weights, 500 tons a piece, do most of the heavy lifting when the operator sets the bridge in motion. It can provide as much as 180 feet vertical clearance for passing boats. We witness a couple short lifts for fishing and tour boats but timing wasn’t quite right to see the full stroke up close when big freighters pass through. Before this was a lift bridge, it was an aerial tram that moved a gondola loaded with people and cars across the channel. That would have been fun to see…and ride. Nearby we spend some time in the Corp of Engineers Maritime Museum checking out wreck history on the lake and other stories from these great bodies of water. We wander on to check out Duluth Pack and of course Duluth Trading Company which is packed with much of the same merchandise and silly messaging as seen on their webpage. We stroll a bit more lakefront in route to Old Chicago Pizza for lunch.
Jay Cooke SP
The stars of this place are the St. Louis River and the CCC built swinging bridge that spans it. The river is stained a rich brown from organic materials upstream. It tumbles and foams down a rugged rock channel. Geology all along here makes for impressive river cuts and lakeshores. It makes for big floods too. This swinging bridge has been completely rebuilt five times, the most recent after a 2012 flood that destroyed all but the piers. The nature center/picnic pavilion is housed in another native stone CCC structure. It has an amazing huge fireplace.
Many white tail deer call this area home. I have watched them several evenings as I am out at our “phone booth” location (reception at our site is terrible) checking in with folks.
Picture of the Week
Exploring Apostle Islands on foot
Meyers Beach trail winds along the top of the sandstone cliff shoreline above a cool collection of sea caves. We get some interesting views of the formations from above and hear the gurgly, blubbly sounds as waves fill the cavities, pressurize the air in them, then burst out. Some sound like a giant sneeze and others like a backed up bathtub. Next time I think we will sea kayak to get the most close up view and sound of the caves.
Another 3 miles took us to Lunch Beach, a tiny strip of sand that when we arrived was covered with about 15 or 20 kayaks as guided tours took their morning break. If you hike this trail, I recommend you turn around after the first 2 ½ miles where the cliff views are the best. The rest of the hike is fairly rugged under foot with many dips into and back out of steep ravines. The view at the end not worth the energy expended to get to it.
We make a quick stop at Cornucopia Beach to fill our water bottles with artesian spring water. It tastes wonderful.
We are back in camp by suppertime and take the rest of the evening just to relax.
Apostle Islands by boat
One has to get out on the water to enjoy this park. We chose the Grand Tour cruise that winds its way past many of the 21 islands. There are lighthouses and lots of rugged terrain which is home to some 30 pair of nesting eagles. The coolest feature is the “sea” caves where thousands of years of crashing waves have eroded pockets into the sandstone cliffs leaving columns and caverns. Today’s calm waters allow us to get up close and personal as the captain noses us to within touching distance to the cliffs.
Superior is an impressive lake and being out on it feels like being out on the ocean. 1333 feet deep at it’s deepest with temperatures at that depth just above freezing even this time of year. Surface temp is a shiver inducing 50 something. A favorite slogan on Lake Superior T-shirts; “The Lake is the boss”. I believe it.
Apostle Island National Lake Shore
The gateway community, Bayfield, is a vacation destination on the lake with lots of cottages and inns along with many restaurants and all manner of resort wear, local art and whatnot shop. Beautiful wildflower gardens line the streets and sidewalks. Docks in the municipal harbor shelter hundreds of sailboats many of which hire out for private tours and trips. The old brownstone courthouse building now houses the National Park Service visitor center. It is a restful, beautiful place to stroll.
Dinner tonight is at The Fat Radish, a farm to table place right downtown. We sample local fish; Kent the whitefish and I lake trout. Both are deliciously prepared and they claim “swimming in the lake last night”. We enjoyed it. I was even too full for blueberry pie!
Boundary Waters Canoe Area by the numbers
Paddled in 5 days out and back: Sawbill Lk, Ada Creek, Ada Lk, Sloop Lk , Cherokee Creek, Cherokee Lk, Gordon Lk, Long Island River, Long Island Lk, & Doe Lake
Campsites: 3
Miles paddled: 28.3 + sight seeing
# Portages: 7X2 for Kent & Lynn, 8X2 for Mike and Tracy
# Beaver Dams crossed: 6 X 2
Portage Distance on Map: 2.4 miles
Portage Distance Actual: 3 miles The difference is attributed to a creek that can no longer be paddled so you slog along the creek bank in the mud for 0.4 miles, Yuk!
Canoe weight 40#each X 2
Total Weight 4 Packs 123# + 2 daypacks
Depth of mudhole found by Mike on portage approx 13”
Rainfall during day 2 of trip 1.4”
Pictures taken: 378
Fanua observed; Loon, Eagle, Grouse, Mink, Beaver, Otter, squirrel, chipmunk, mouse, frog, Crow, owl, coyote, gulls, jays, nuthatches, kingfishers, turtles, coots, mergansers, red headed ducks
For some, back to the city life
Up at 4AM and on our way long before daylight. It’s a couple hour drive, there is the border crossing lady, time must be allotted for the TSA folks, and add a little cushion in case we want some breakfast at Tim Horton’s. GPS Betsy does not lead us astray and the border agent on duty is very laid back so we have plenty of time to make our donut stop. Coffee is great and donuts very fresh (I tried the S’mores donut. Graham crackers are under-represented but otherwise quite tasty) plus it gave us a few more minutes to visit before the kids head off. We drop them at Departures and head back across the border and along the beautiful lakeshore.
Kent’s phone chirps. It’s a text from Mike. Seems there has been a bit of a snafu which we will credit to learning curve on Kent’s new “smart” phone. His calendar is set to switch time with time zone crossing and we didn’t catch it. So, the kids are at the airport an hour early. Better than an hour late. Oops.